Twohandedshift

Reflections, reviews and musings about menswear.

beyondfabric:

The Sahariana

Today I get the chance to review what was undoubtedly one of my favourite pieces shown during last Pitti: MAN 1924's interpretation of the Safari Jacket. Originally the go-to choice of British Military stationed in Africa, the Safari Jacket or Sahariana served the purposed of functionality, with added mobility and comfort meeting the perfect fabric weight to withstand lower temperatures during the evening.

Its distinctive features are reminiscent of the military universe: four or more expandable flap pockets, belted waist and epaulettes. The popularity of the Safari Jacket followed the post-war period, when army surplus was easily found and its unique aesthetic and relaxed nature quickly became a favourite within menswear enthusiasts, namely workwear aficionados. However, in recent years, several brands and designers have re-discovered the underlying beauty of the garment, incorporating a variety of updated versions suitable for more casual or polished attires.

This version from MAN 1924 is the perfect example. Featuring a beautiful army green herringbone cotton/linen fabric, the perfect looser fit makes it a layering essential both for summer days or the upcoming transitional season. Generous pockets allow to carry all everyday essentials, the adjustable waist belt provides a flattering silhouette even when worn unbuttoned and the small details such as horn buttons and epaulettes just add that extra bit of flare. Here I went for a more casual approach, layering it over a houndstooth vest, spread collar shirt and paisley scarf, along with white denim and loafers. Although this look might translate the core essence of the jacket, I cant wait to pair it with more formal attires.

Details: Sahariana by MAN 1924, houndstooth vest by Purificacion Garcia, MTM spread collar shirt, white denim and paisley scarf by Massimo Dutti, grained leather penny loafers by Bexley, aviators by Ray-Ban, vintage bracelets.

Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira

Ph: Filipa Alves

Follow me on Facebook | Twitter | Instagram

blazerandtie:

cheungish:

Check out my post on Blog - Melbourne’s not too bad. 

Steez.

Unbuttoned DB. the sharp sweep of the lapels, and suede loafers with burgundy socks elevate what would formally only be a competently conservative ensemble into something magnificent. The right hand in the pocket  ala Cary Grant is a reminder that style is something to be approached holistically. There are aesthetic similarities between this approach and the one adopted by tailoring enthusiasts in South Korea. 
On a side note it would be interesting to study the differences between Japanese and Korean style from an anthropological and economic perspective. Though the suggestion may seem pretentious I feel as though it would further’s one’s appreciation of what is too often reduced to an obsession with mere aesthetics and consumption.

blazerandtie:

cheungish:

Check out my post on Blog - Melbourne’s not too bad. 

Steez.

Unbuttoned DB. the sharp sweep of the lapels, and suede loafers with burgundy socks elevate what would formally only be a competently conservative ensemble into something magnificent. The right hand in the pocket  ala Cary Grant is a reminder that style is something to be approached holistically. There are aesthetic similarities between this approach and the one adopted by tailoring enthusiasts in South Korea. 

On a side note it would be interesting to study the differences between Japanese and Korean style from an anthropological and economic perspective. Though the suggestion may seem pretentious I feel as though it would further’s one’s appreciation of what is too often reduced to an obsession with mere aesthetics and consumption.

(via steezyasiandudes)

Triple Stripe. Note the importance of flannel.
putthison:

Whither the Metrosexual?
For The Awl, Johanna King-Slutzky considers the culture behind the buzzword, which was first coined in 1994 but peaked in the era of Queer Eye for the Straight Guy a decade ago :

Indulgence is at the crux of metrosexuality’s demise. This is not new. Victorianist scholar James Eli Adams argues that Victorian masculinity was characterized by intense programs of self-discipline, and dandyism is conventionally masculine because its lacquers demand self-discipline to curate and maintain. Dandyism, hipsterism and metrosexuality all toe this line by demanding a disciplined commitmentto narcissism and indulgence. Dandys must starch their linens and tie their cravats; hipsters must update their glasses and curate their records; and metrosexuals like Beckham must sculpt and oil their muscles. The masculine transgression isn’t the behavior, which is not actually strange, but the intent—usually self-love, the desire for desire, or (perhaps this is most shocking of all) self-care camaraderie between men and women.

She further makes the point that a lot of the behaviors and consumption associated with metrosexuality—particularly attention to grooming—have been made mainstream by conscious association with old-school masculinity in the decade since.
-Pete

putthison:

Whither the Metrosexual?

For The Awl, Johanna King-Slutzky considers the culture behind the buzzword, which was first coined in 1994 but peaked in the era of Queer Eye for the Straight Guy a decade ago :

Indulgence is at the crux of metrosexuality’s demise. This is not new. Victorianist scholar James Eli Adams argues that Victorian masculinity was characterized by intense programs of self-discipline, and dandyism is conventionally masculine because its lacquers demand self-discipline to curate and maintain. Dandyism, hipsterism and metrosexuality all toe this line by demanding a disciplined commitmentto narcissism and indulgence. Dandys must starch their linens and tie their cravats; hipsters must update their glasses and curate their records; and metrosexuals like Beckham must sculpt and oil their muscles. The masculine transgression isn’t the behavior, which is not actually strange, but the intent—usually self-love, the desire for desire, or (perhaps this is most shocking of all) self-care camaraderie between men and women.

She further makes the point that a lot of the behaviors and consumption associated with metrosexuality—particularly attention to grooming—have been made mainstream by conscious association with old-school masculinity in the decade since.

-Pete

thestudenttailor:

A sharply clad pair. I particularly like the straight, razor sharp peaked lapels with their high gorges.

Australia represent. Drew Hoare, Brand and Marketing Manager at Australian menswear label M.J. Bale in the 1st photo.

(Source: andybarnham)

linenforsummertweedforwinter:

eidosnapoli:

Il Cuore di Pescatore - Eidos Napoli P/E 2015 showroom sneak peak pt. 1
Story # 4

(Antipodean) Summer is Coming.

Beautiful high waisted trousers.

linenforsummertweedforwinter:

eidosnapoli:

Il Cuore di Pescatore - Eidos Napoli P/E 2015 showroom sneak peak pt. 1

Story # 4

(Antipodean) Summer is Coming.

Beautiful high waisted trousers.

““People want things with integrity,” he explains, and in response to that, he is opening a custom-tailor shop adjacent to his offices. Calling it “an experiment in taste,” the designer hopes to find those willing to embrace the haberdashery spirit.”

—   The beginnings; 29 years ago. Excerpt from an interview with Alan in W Magazine, 1985: The Charm of a Well-Dressed Man (via alanflusser)

David Berglas

“The rise of haute couture in the early 20th century dovetailed with advances in communication and travel, and so, too, the public’s unusual interest in this rarefied world. There are well-known stories of Paris policemen and taxi drivers being able to recognize couture, like a cop in the ’30s who refused to arrest a feminist agitator on the grounds that she was dressed by Molyneux. By the ’60s, everyone knew about the latest fashion, if not from Mary Quant, then from the Beatles. But sometime in the late ’80s, fashion discovered semiotics. Clothes suddenly acquired meaning (think of the efforts to “decode” a Helmut Lang show or almost any by Martin Margiela). You truly needed to be an expert to appreciate why a jacket was worn inside out or why a dress that made you look like a bag lady was cool. Susan Sontag described a similar shift in the arts in the mid-60s, noting that “the most interesting and creative art of our time is not open to the generally educated; it demands special effort; it speaks a specialized language.” Today, as high fashion moves closer to mass media — with brand-hosted YouTube channels, films, huge spectacles — there is pressure to simplify. I also wonder whether the surge of new brands — their shows often crammed with weird and banal designs — hasn’t caused elite designers to rethink matters. Hence more straightforward clothes.”

thestudenttailor:

A four by four navy double breasted blazer with patch pockets and peaked lapels is just about my favourite menswear staple…
agnelli-esque:

source:www.roseborn.com


A naturally narrow shouldered man. The peak lapels and the roped shoulder add breadth to the silhouette without resorting to hard unnatural shoulders. The patch pockets are a lovely casual touch however they compromise I think this wearer’s figure by adding visual weight to the thus making him appear more compact. Whether such compromises are justified is a matter of personal taste.

thestudenttailor:

A four by four navy double breasted blazer with patch pockets and peaked lapels is just about my favourite menswear staple…

agnelli-esque:

source:www.roseborn.com

A naturally narrow shouldered man. The peak lapels and the roped shoulder add breadth to the silhouette without resorting to hard unnatural shoulders. The patch pockets are a lovely casual touch however they compromise I think this wearer’s figure by adding visual weight to the thus making him appear more compact. Whether such compromises are justified is a matter of personal taste.

(Source: agnelli-esque)